Summer Top Tutorial -- Finishing the Top

Welcome back to the Summer Top Tutorial!

Cute top, huh?

I finished the top yesterday, and if I say so myself, I'm pretty darn pleased with it. Finishing this perfectly breezy top is pretty simple, once the yoke is completed. So, let's continue where we left off, shall we?

To make the main panels of the top, measure around your bust. Divide this number by 4. We're basically making two panels (front and back), and cutting them on the fold, so the pattern is going to be quartered. The basic measurements are that number you just calculated at the top in a horizontal line. Then measure down how far you want the top to go (mine was about 18") plus a seam allowance. Make another horizontal line that measures your original calculation plus two or three inches at the bottom. You want the panels to flare out a bit. See below for the basic shape.

Make sure the center of the pattern is on the fold

Note that this isn't the end for this pattern. Once you've cut the two panels out, decide which one is going to be the front and which is going to be the back. Now make arm scyes for each of these panels (if you keep them folded, you only have to cut once per panel). If you have a sloped or funny-shaped yoke front like I do, cut the appropriate shape in the center front, as well. Below are my final two pieces. They're still folded in half.

Back and front pieces

Now lay the front and back right sides together, pin the sides, and then sew them together. Or serge them. Because this is going to be the only "exposed" seam on the inside.

Pins down the side seam

Serging side seams

Here's the result, with nice neat seams.

No frayed edges here!

Next we'll make binding for the arm scyes. Because yes, you could just fold the arm holes in and sew them down, but this binding just looks amazing. So, cut two strips of your main fabric, 1 1/4" wide by 10" or so (just a bit longer than your arm holes). Then fold each strip in half lengthwise. Open this up and fold one side in half again. Then refold down the original line and press that binding down. With starch if it's being a brat.

Finished arm hole binding

Now pin the binding to the armholes of the main top. Right sides together, as always, and make sure you pin the unfolded side down to the arm scye. Use a 1/4" seam allowance to sew them together.

Binding the arm scye

Fold the binding over the edge of the arm scye and pin in place. Make sure the binding on the back/inside/whatever you want to call it is a little lower than on the front. Then stitch in the ditch from the front. It looks super professional and neat! Of course, I was a little lazy and actually edge-stitched it. But it still looked good!

Pinned in place

Edge-stitching

Here's the finished  armholes! Trim the extra bits off the ends, too.

Finished arm scyes

Now we're going to attach that beautiful yoke we made to the main body piece! This can be a bit tricky, but it doesn't have to be. First, turn your main body piece inside out. I started putting together the back pieces with the main tube right side out and realized it would be easier the other way around. So, learn from my mistakes! Also, mark your yoke (inside vs. outside). I stuck a pin in the inner yoke lining at each end. Then pin the back of the main body to the back of the yoke, right sides together.

The back pinned right sides together

Do the same for the front of the main body and front of the yoke. If your pieces have curves, consider stay-stitching at the very top edge (about 1/8" from the top) so it doesn't shift around on you. Or, if the main body piece is bigger than the yoke, run a long gathering stitch across the top and gather a little until it fits inside. Make sure the main body pieces fit right up to the seams of the yoke.

Front yoke and back yoke pinned to respective main panels

Here's a close-up of those funny curves I added. Not so funny during this bit. But manageable.

Lots of pins

Since I am using a knit and a woven fabric, I wanted my seams to be able to stretch just a little bit. So I used a zig-zag for these seams. Sew the front yoke to the front panel as pinned, and the back yoke to the back panel.

My machine settings for the zig-zag

Don't worry too much if your seam doesn't look perfect. Just make sure the fabric edges match for the most part. This will all be enclosed in the next section though, so teeny tiny differences in the edges won't be seen.

Following the seam line

This is the finished seam in the front. Due to the curves, it looks a bit bulky, so I cut a few notches in the curves to reduce bulk.

Zig-zagged seam

To finish up the seams and attach the yoke lining to the main panels, fold under about a 1/4" (or whatever seam allowance you used) of the raw edge of the lining. This includes the parts at the side seams. Now pin it in place, matching the front seam. Do this on both the front and back of the top.

Back yoke lining pinned to wrong side of main panel

Yes, it looks a bit wonky... press it if it's giving you trouble

I wanted to finish the seams by top-stitching with a twin needle, but a single line of top-stitching looks good, too. The twin needle gives the same appearance that you see on the sleeve hems of t-shirts, that narrow double line of stitching. I thought it looked appropriate, given the knit fabric. In any case, you want to stitch it together from the front to make sure it looks nice, but make sure you catch all of the lining, too. Just like with the arm scyes, you might want to pull the lining just a tad lower than the right side to ensure you catch every last bit. And be careful not to catch the back yoke when you're sewing the front, or vice versa!

My twin needle

If you look closely, you can just barely see the topstitching

The top is almost done now, and the end is in sight! Try it on, to make sure it fits well, and mark your hem. I decided to shorten mine up a fraction once I'd sewn everything else, and I needed to fix the hem to be horizontal, anyway. Either use a dress form to mark your hem evenly, or have someone pin the hem while you stand straight in your new top. Cut whatever extra fabric there is off, leaving behind a seam allowance to make the hem out of. Then iron the hem however you like. I double folded mine.

First fold

Pin the hem to keep it in place, and then bring it over to the sewing machine again to finish it. A single line of straight stitching was all I used along the top of the hem.

Hem pinned up

I used the edge of my foot to make sure my sewing line was level with the bottom of the top.

A little wider seam than normal

Here is the finished summer top! Perfectly flowy and with a cute contrasting yoke to boot!

Front view

I decided against adding the reverse applique heart to the back yoke, in the end. I can always add something later, if I really want, but the rest of the pattern on the top is so busy, I felt it was enough as is.

Back view

Enjoy the summer heat with your nice, new, breezy top, and let me know in the comments if there's anything you'd add or do differently!

Happy Sewing,
Lea